The simple bass jig, a combination of weight, hook, and skirt, is a powerful producer. Few other lures work during such a range of seasons, conditions, and locations. While it can do all of that straight out of the package, you can make it better.
Improving a bass jig won’t get you more bites. That requires a study of where, when, and how to use them. What these tweaks will do is ensure you connect with and land more of the bass that you find. That will make you a more efficient angler, which translates into better fishing trips. Getting there is as simple as following these five steps:
1. Sculpt the Weed Guard
Jigs are built for pulling big bass from heavy cover. Most of that ability stems from the weed guard, which shields the hook’s point until it’s needed. Look long enough, and you’ll find bass jigs sporting a single wire or Y-shaped guard, but most guards are made of a bundle of fibers, and that’s what you want.
Don’t fall into temptation, cutting down a jig’s guard to better expose the hook’s point. However, shorter strands are stiffer than longer ones and less likely to flex out of the way when you set the hook. Create a happy medium: Remove about a third of them at their base, or, separate them down the middle, creating a V-shape with the hook’s point in the center.
2. Shorten and Strengthen the Skirt
Undulating as it moves through the water, a skirt gives a jig action and profile. It provides more of each after a trim. Cut the silicone strands so they extend about 1 inch beyond the hook’s bend.
If you want to get particular, trim the outside strands just a tiny bit shorter. Both cause the skirt to flair at rest: action that can convince an interested bass to bite.
Every good rule has an exception, and this one was written by tournament legend and current commentator Davy Hite. His Mop Jig from Buckeye Lures, which he used to win the 2006 Bassmaster Elite Series tournament on Clarks Hill Reservoir, has living rubber strands that flow well past the hook’s bend. They create a large and lifelike profile, which is a good choice when warming water makes springtime bass aggressive.
Note On Attaching a Skirt: Most skirts are held together with a plastic collar. It works well, but its lifespan can be short. Sun, heat, and use weaken it over time, causing it to shed skirt strands. It also doesn’t hold the skirt tight, allowing it to spin around the hook’s shank. That movement is why skipping jigs often stop short of their target. Solve both issues with fly tying wire or thread; a few tight wraps will cinch the collar in place.
3. Match the Trailer to the Conditions
Jigs and trailers go together like peanut butter and jelly; they’re good alone but better together. While you can still purchase traditional pork frogs, it’s less hassle to use a soft-plastic version. Its color and size should match its jig, creating a natural and balanced profile. But its design should complement where, when and how you’re fishing. Prepare yourself by packing these three in assorted colors:
- Flapper: Give some glide to your jig with a Zoom Super Chunk or similar trailer with large flat claws. They’re best for slowing your jig’s rate of sink when the water’s cold or getting under docks when it’s warmer. Their appendages wave at rest, providing action even when you’re not.
- Twin Tail: Your jig needs to be moving to get action from this trailer type. So, they work best when swimming a jig through shallow cover or high hopping one down deep-water structure. Choose ones with wide flat tails for the most action. A good example is Yamamoto’s Double Tail.
- Natural: Realistic features abound on this trailer type, which includes YUM Salt Craws. They create a lifelike profile, which should be your first choice when the water is clear, where bass rely on their eyes to feed. They don’t add much action other than a bit of gliding.
4. Ensure Your Hooks Are Sharp and Straight
Most jigs are equipped with a modern hook that’s stout and extremely sharp. They’re ready for service straight from the store. But others are poured with a bronze hook, which usually needs some sharpening when new. That’s best done with a flat file. Run it down the top and along the sides, cutting toward the point to create a triangular tip with three cutting edges. You know it’s sharp enough if the point grabs when dragged across your fingernail.
True story: My fishing partner could not figure out why he was missing so many bites. Turned out his jig’s hook broke just below the barb, so no matter how hard he reared back, that hook wasn’t setting. It provided a simple lesson: regularly inspect your jig’s hook. Repeated catches and snags dull them or bend the point. If either issue arises, follow the steps outlined above for sharpening it. Small bends in the point can be straightened with file work. More extensive damage means the jig should be retired.
5. Create a Stockpile of Ready-to-Fish Jigs + 3 Tips for Organizing Them
Most of us fish to relieve the stress of daily life. So, there’s no need to create more as you drift from your hot spot while tuning or locating a replacement for the hot jig you lost. Dedicate time to stockpiling tuned jigs before you head to your favorite hole. These three tips will ensure you can find them quickly:
- Bag your jigs: Protect each jig inside a 2.5-inch by 3-inch resealable bag, which are sold by purveyors of tackle-making supplies. It’ll keep them rust free and untangled. Find them fast by writing the color and size on each in permanent marker. Include brand and model, making replacement easier.
- Dedicate a box: A 3600-size utility box, or 3700 if you really like jig fishing, will organize your jigs. Choose the deeper version, so those small bags can stand on their side, maximizing space. Arrange your jigs by color and weight.
- Organize your trailers: Nearly every soft-plastic lure, including jig trailers, is sold in a resealable bag. That’s the best place to keep them. Put those in a zippered pouch such as 6th Sense Small Bait Bag. Take it one step further by using office binder clips to collate bags of similar colors or styles.
